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Dec 28, 2006
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FliteMetal prep
Working on my the SBD Dauntless that I won the Toledo Show with in 2004, I came across a couple materials that really improved the quality of the big 5-piece greenhouse canopy of the SBD. I learned a lot doing that canopy and went on to use the same basic techniques and materials on this FW190 project.
First off, I found that FliteMetal (supplied by ScaleAero) could be used to build up the molded framework in the clear canopy, giving it a much more realistic, raised panel, sharp-edged look. It also gives you a good finished surface to paint on.
Secondly, I found that Bob Dively Liquid Mask worked great for masking large areas such as the clear "glass" areas of the canopy. It works really well when masking areas that have curves to their outline or overall shape. Much easier than cutting masking tape to shape.
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On the mating edges of the windscreen and canopy, I prepared them for primer and paint using the following steps. I surfaced the trailing surface of the windscreen with 10mil styrene, and the leading surface of the canopy with spot putty as needed. Once that was done, I surfaced them both with FliteMetal.
   
Moving on to the rest of the framework, I proceeded to cut pieces of FliteMetal and burnish them onto the molded framework using a paper burnishing stump. The hardest part by far was the teardrop shaped turtledeck portion of the rear canopy. The compound curves proved to provide a real challenge. Due the the size of the area to be covered, it was necessary to do this in multiple pieces, seaming the FM material down the spine of the turtledeck, and a couple small seams along the left and right sides of the canopy below the glass.
Note that I always "scuff sand" my FM before applying primer to help knock down any blemishes and provide better paint adhesion.
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Primer application
Before primer could be applied, I needed to mask the clear glass areas, which I used the Bob Dively liquid mask for. Once two coats were brushed on and dried, I began applying primer over the entire canopy.
 When working with FliteMetal or other aluminum components, I usually try to use a "Self-Etching" Primer, which bites into the metallic surface much better and gives me a good base to add further coats to. Once two light/thin coats were applied (just enough to cover), I then go ahead and give it one light coat of Filler Primer and sand smooth.
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Scale antenna feature
For the scale antenna (non-functional), I fabricated the forward pulley position from hardwood block and a toothpick. After sealing it with epoxy, and adding primer, I opened up a small area in the liquid mask to glue it to the canopy with RCZ56 Canopy Glue.
I then picked up some flexible elastic beading cord from the local craft store and prepared both ends for a removable antenna. I used a tiny metal rod on the forward end for a hook to attach to the canopy mount, and a loop in the chord at the rear end to attach to the vertical fin post.
With the elastic cord cut to the proper length, the scale antenna always stays taught (no droop or slack) whether the canopy is open or closed. This does a great job in simulating the antenna spooling in and out of the canopy top via the pulley mount. Also, it will be easy to remove the antenna for flight, transport or storage should I choose to do so. |
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Summary
Well that finally wraps up all the primary surface details for the fuselage. The only thing left on the fuse before painting are the thousands of simulated rivets and screws. I'd love to remove the masking to show you the framework effect of the FliteMetal, but I would just have to remask all over again when I paint color coats. So, the mask stays on for now.
It really feels good to reach this point, but still one more bit of detailing to complete before doing rivets... the retracts and gear doors...
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"detailing retracts & doors"
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