Making the Gunners' Floor

Finally on the gunner position of the interior, I began with the floor... just like I did with the pilot section. The floor of the gunner position is unique in that instead of flat metal plating, this floor used a corrugated style of metal plating. I assume this was to irrigate water away and give the gunner better foot traction for spinning/manuevering the turret ring of the gun. The gunner had limited flight controls and also needed to be able to spin 180 degrees to the forward position in the event that he needed to take over flight control.









I began by making a posterboard dummy/template for the floor, then used it as a guide to frame up the floor with styrene L-channel, U-channel and I-beam. Into this framework I added corrugated styrene. This material is Plastistruct 1/32" scale corrugated siding and works great for the floor. The corrugation runs both from front to back and left to right in 3 sections, with the fourth/aft section being normal 20mil flat styrene sheeting.

I cut out the area for spent ammo shell casings and framed it in with L-stock too. The linkage for the gunners flight stick was made from styrene tubing and was built up to the point where the removable flight stick attaches. This stick was normally stowed on the port side wall until needed. The rudder pedals were made from styrene of course, with a balsa block base and styrene rod for pinning to the floor.

I began painting by covering everything with my acrylic Zinc Chromate Green, then applied all my glue rivets. Next I used a 1/4" brush to apply darker green washes to begin building the shadows and grime down into the valleys of the 3D relief and corrugation. Then I went back to the Zinc Green, and used the same brush to drybrush everything, blending the dark wash in and lighten the high spots back up. Working through progressively lighter shades of the green, I did multiple steps of drybrushing to accent all the 3D relief.

Next I dirtied up the green with Acrylic "Dirt" and scrubbed areas that would collect such dirt. I did the same with Tamiya Yellow Green to show thinner/yellowed shades of green. Next I drybrushed Acrylic Steel in the areas of heavy wear, such as where the gunners' feet would rub the paint off the high spots of the corrugation. The drybrushed Steel produces areas where the paint has worn through in a feathered fashion, rather than peeled off in pieces.

More accenting was done with a 00 brush using Yellow Green and Testor's Silver to bring out the relief further and bring detail to the paint distressing. The direct application of Silver with the 00 brush produces chipped, scratched and peeling paint vs the worn through effect that the previous drybrushing steps did.

Lastly I airbrushed a very light coat of a color I mix and call "dust" to dull everything down to a dusty appearance. The same techniques were applied to the rudder pedals and all was glued securely into place inside the gunner position interior. Now it's ready for the two walls.

Rather than try to glue each section to the fuse individually, I chose to bond each section together and form a single center canopy component that I could then mount to the fuse. I figured as long as I had each of the 4 sections securely glued and pinned together into a strong, solid set... I could then focus on a strong glue joint of the set onto the fuse.




"Gunner Section Walls"